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Before we rush into slamming the motor and transmission into the frame and then start madly bolting on the chrome goodies, that we've spent our hard earned bucks on, let's take a hard look at the bare frame.

While it's still bare, let's do some planning to see how much of the wiring, lines and cables we can route through our frame, which will give our bike that ultra clean, stripped down look we want.

Measure out the new Rolling Thunder frame to make certain the dimensions are correct.

If there are any surprises in your frame you want to find then now, not later.

Our frame came with oil tank, rear axle, and covers.

Most of the electrical wiring will be terminating in the battery area located in the center of the oil tank, al la soft tail fashion.

We are marking a 1" hole and will be drilling on the back side of the seat post, above the top of the oil tank to pass the wires through.

Cleaning and deburring the passageway thoroughly are a must to avoid electrical gremlins down the road.

Drill the hole using a 1" hole saw.

Electrical wiring; like your rear running lights, brake lights and ignition module wiring, must get to the battery area where they will exit thru the passage way we drilled at the top back of the seat post.

They will enter the seat post thru this hole marked at the bottom right side of the seat post just below the transmission mounting plate. A 3/8" to a " hole are all that's required here.

Remember to clean, and debur, you'll be hearing me say that line a lot!

The ignition module wiring coming from the bottom of the point cover will go into the frame on the back side of the lower right frame rail directly below the cam cover, clean and outa sight.

Cleaning and deburring, right? Right!!!

 

We are running a hydraulic clutch actuator, hence a small hydraulic line rather than a fat braided stainless cable.

We can hide the line by running it through the frame to our clutch master cylinder on the left side of the bars. Sanitary!

Check out the chrome Baker right side tranny, shiny eh? We've covered the top of the tranny with layers of masking tape so while we are installing and removing the oil tank during the fabrication process we don't scratch our highly coveted chrome tranny.

We'll drill our hole in the frame just below the clutch actuator on the inside of the frame rail where it can't be seen.

To get up to the left side of neck area where we can exit the clutch line and terminate it to the clutch master cylinder on the handlebars, we have to get it from the right side lower frame rail below the clutch actuator where we drilled our entrance hole to the front down tube.

To pass the line through into the front down tube we're going to have to use a cutting wheel to cut out this small square area we've marked in the front lower frame rail.

Once that's done, we can use our hole saw to pass through this opening and drill our entrance hole into the down tube.

Once we get that hole drilled, and our pulling wires routed through the frame, we'll weld this piece back in the frame and grind it down so the incision will never be seen. If you can do this as described, leaving no telltale signs of where the incision was made, you may qualify as a plastic or brain surgeon, instead of just a bike builder.

Opens a lotta doors, doesn't it.

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